The decor sounds unappealing: "a broad space of high ceilings and coving, with thick carpets to muffle the screams. It is decorated in various shades of taupe, biscuit and fuck you."
A watercress puree makes his "lips purse, like a cat’s arse that’s brushed against nettles."
Le Cinq would not let him photograph their food afterwards and insisted that he use press shots. Fortunately Rayner had taken some shots with his iPhone during the meal. The photographs below of the gratinated onion dish he describes as "mostly black, like nightmares, and sticky, like the floor at a teenager’s party" highlight the differences between Rayner's experience and the press shot.
|The onions. Photograph: The Guardian|
|The onions. Photograph: Jean Claude Amiel|